3 comments about Vogue Women.

1. although this book was at times, nice to look at and read, they have appeared to leave out a lot of people. some of the pictures are good, good enough to be called photographs, they seemed to gloss over each and it left out some sort of magic. i guess by normal standards the book is okay, but you may be looking into the beauty and not the presense. i suggest you check out scavullo photographs 50 years.



2. This book is just stunning. The photographs all have such beauty in so many aspects wether it be in the composition or person in the photograph! This book really reminds the reader why vogue is a fashion icon. It contains many stories about its featured women which cover all walks of life and celebrity. A visual and (for it's genre) literary gem.



3. This book is brilliantly written and edited by Georgina Howell about the images of women in British Vogue. As fine as the photographs in this book are (done by many of the 20th century's most talented photographers), the thoughts about these images are even more interesting and valuable.

   Conde Nast's original purpose for Vogue was to "produce the most beautiful and tasteful magazine that had ever existed."

   The subjects for the photographs have changed a lot since Vogue was founded. Originally, all of the subjects were either royalty or society women. As Ms. Howell points out, you can never get rid of royalty if you are Vogue, but you can move on in other areas. At the start of the century, the aspiration was to look like an aristocrat or an actress. By the end of the century, the desire was to "look like television presenters and the wives of football [soccer] stars."

   The book is organized around type of photographic subject, with a marvelous essay in each case exploring the meaning portrayed by those photographs. The sections are royalty, society girls, inspirations, muses, dynasties, models, stars, exotics/eccentrics, waifs, and icons. Here are my favorite photographs from each section:

   Royalty -- Helen Windsor, taken by Lord Snowdon, 1982

   Society Girls -- Jemima Khan, taken by Oberto Gili, 1998

   Inspirations -- Mother Teresa, taken by John Downey, 1981

   Muses -- Ines de la Fressange, taken by Albert Watson, 1985

   Dynasties -- (Mother) Nena Von Schlebrugge, taken by Norman Parkinson, 1958; (Daughter) Uma Thurman, taken by Albert Watson, 1994

   Models -- Cindy Crawford, taken by Arthur Elgort, 1995

   Stars -- Charlotte Rampling, taken by Clive Arrowsmith, 1970

   Exotics/Eccentrics -- Diana Vreeland, taken by Horst P. Horst, 1979

   Waifs -- Marianne Faithfull, taken by David Bailey, 1965

   Icons -- Diana, taken by Patrick Demarchelier, 1997; Greta Garbo, taken by Cecil Beeton, 1946

   Where many books with photographs of beautiful women simply try to overwhelm you, this book instead features photographs to illustrate the essays. The theme here is to examine "beauty that survives radical changes in taste and fashion." The subjects are "distinguished or notorious, pretty or striking, and sometimes all four . . . ." This is done in a way consistent with Vogue's purpose to "dress the mind as elegantly as the bodies" displayed here.

   The essays don't take the subject as seriously as all this sounds. For example, Ms. Howell is quick to point out that "happy endings have been few and far between" for those who have been portrayed in Vogue's pages. So we are dealing with an illusion of a perfect person and a perfect life. Illusions can be helpful in setting appropriate aspirations. The question the Vogue images raise is whether following the "trendiest" of the time is appropriate. The book itself suggests that it is not. In fact, I found the essays to be an interesting counterpoint to Vogue's usual monthly issue in suggesting what timeless values are and should be for women. And that was more than I expected or had a right to expect from this book. So I was very pleased with it.

   My expectation had been to see some terrific photography done by great photographers. And there was plenty of that. But the social commentary is the most valuable part of this book.

   To better put this book in perspective, you will find it valuable to take a look at David Bailey's "Birth of the Cool" to see lots of terrific Vogue photography from the 1960s. You will be struck by the contrasts immediately between establishing a look and a feel as fashion in that book, and seeing images here for establishing a socially meaningful perspective. I think you will enjoy both books.

   After you have finished viewing these books and their fine images, why don't you think about what your aspirations are for yourself. Are these consistent with your own heart? If not, could some of these aspirations come from the popular media? If so, can you identify which ones? Then, examine each to see if it merits your support.

   Be yourself, beautifully!

1 comments about Toile de Jouy.

1. Recently there has been an explosion in the popular applications of toile de Jouy's monochromatic patterns. You can buy anything from a dog bed to a light switch cover embellished with this venerable fabric. Although it may seem faddish, toile de Jouy has been a classic decorating choice for almost 250 years never falling out of favor.

   A recently published book, Toile de Jouy: Printed Textiles in the Classical French Style brings focuses on the interesting history of this enduring fabric decorating staple. Toile de Jouy includes hundreds of vibrant color photographs gathering together antique fabrics, pattern sketchbooks, block prints, period clothing, and period soft furnishings. The photographs capture the amazing monochromatic fabric designs that we are familiar with, historical tributes, literary themes, everyday scenes, and bucolic country life. There are also fabrics that we are not likely to associate with toile de Jouy; blazing or muted multicolored florals and geometrics. Toile de Jouy also educates the reader about historical textile production, design, and the history of France during difficult political times.

   The Manufacture Royale de Jouy, which produced these fine fabrics, opened for business in 1760 with just three employees. During it's 83 years in business The Manufacture Royale de Jouy accomplished the Herculean task of creating and printing 30,000 patterns. Famous artists of the day were courted to produce patterns and they accepted because the work had high visibility and was well paid. So popular were the fabrics that the annual receipts made it the second largest factory in France.

   Always a fine and expensive product, toile was personally selected by Marie Antoinette and Napoleon for interior decoration in their palaces and stately homes. To attest to the brilliance and timeless character of the original designs many are still available from contemporary suppliers such as Pierre Frey, Brunschweig and Fils, Maison Georges Le Manach, Casal-Amelie Prevot, Braquenie, and other manufacturers.

4 comments about In the Paint: Tattoos of the NBA and the Stories Behind Them.

1. This may look odd but I was trying to post someone else's review of my book that they e-mailed to me. I mean, why would I review my own book? I didn't even read it.



2. NBA players have no respect for the art of tattooing or the history of it-- they simply get tattoos to look tough and/or get attention. This book is about as superficial as the tattoos it portrays.



3. I was'nt that impressed with this book.I thought it was going to go into alot more detail and show better array of pictures.Most of the pictures you can see on the internet already.The pictures that new were very few and far in between.It is a nice book to add to a collection,if you like tattoos or sports.Not a hreat book to learn about the players tattoos and meanings or even to see pctures of them.Some pictures shown didnt even get explained in the book.



4. This book is more than just a bunch of pictures of NBA guys with tatoos -- though it has some great pictures. It is wittily written (the jacket says the author is comedy writer) without being condescending to the athletes. It's informative and fun and thorough. The players come off as everything from funny and strange to thoughtful and deep. My only complaint is that the colors in the photography could be a little more vivid. I'd reccommend this book to any NBA, skin art, or self expression.

5 comments about Front Row: Anna Wintour: The Cool Life and Hot Times of Vogue's Editor in Chief.

1. I agree with much of what the previous reviewer,Lee Mellott,said. I too stopped reading VOGUE years ago (personally, I much prefer VANITY FAIR).
   
   Like many reviewers of this Oppenheimer book, I was enthralled to read more about Anna Wintour's life and so I picked up this book. And I was not disappointed!
   
   Oppenheimer has taken task to interview so many people that have known Anna,(many many) and with those interviews, he was able to write a very interesting book.
   
   Granted , the book is Oppenheimer's point of view on Anna. However, if even HALF of what Oppenheimer has discovered about Anna is true (via his research), OMG, the woman sounds like a manipulative, menacing, ruthless, and highly interesting person!
   
   You may ask how a woman (ie:Anna) who is so menacing can also be interesting? Well, if you were to read this book, you'd know just why I stated this point.
   
   The first half of the book is about Anna's past and how she climbed her way to the "top". I found this sooo interesting,from start to finish!
   
   Basically, Anna knows how to use her money , her family status, and her sexual personna to manipulate people in order to get what she wants. As ANDREA, the main character in THE DEVIL WEARS PRADA would say:
   "...had Miranda [ie: Anna] been a man, Miranda would be a typical assertive executive male, using everything in his power to climb to the top.But because Miranda [Anna] is a woman,then she is seen as a B****".
   
   Yes, Anna Wintour (or Miranda) is not a MAN, and therefore society deems her as a "devil",... or a self-serving "status climber". Is that totally fair to Anna Wintour? Well, when you read this book, you can decide for yourself.
   
   The second half of the book deals with Anna Wintour's rise to the top. This part of the book goes deeply into what makes Anna tick. What turns her on (and off). What Anna Wintour will do to get what she wants is carefully explained.
   
   In this book , Anna is often portrayed as a woman that was/is selfish and cold, and as a woman that will sleep her way to the top, whether she loves the man or not. She married for status, as the book reflects. She used/uses people then basically throws them away when she is done with them. She is portrayed as a woman that was (& is) eager to please her Dad, and was (& is) willing to do anything to win that approval. What I get, from the book, is that once her Dad died, Anna's ruthless personality was so deeply embedded,...so much so that it has been difficult for Anna to turn back.
   
   For a while, when Anna was having an affair with "the Texan", Anna seemed to be softening a bit. However, since the book stops at 2004, heaven only knows if she is still with "the Texan" or not.
   
   Once again, this is Oppenheimer's take on Anna. Is it true, or is Oppenheimer's view of Anna a bit far fetched?
   The only way for the reader to decide this point, is to read the book and decide for themself.
   
   My opinion (& this is only my opinion) is that Anna is very much like what Oppenheimer's research portrayed in this book. But I'm sure that there is much more to Anna that the reader will never know.
   
   Anna Wintour is a chamelion, and also, she is a mystery to many, ---and primarily since she rarely lets her guard down.



2. Give me a break. Jerry Oppenheimer is one of those "unauthorized" biographers who extrapolates and dramatizes, adding his own skewed agenda all along the way. I couldn't stand his writing (especially his creating thoughts for Ms. Wintour as a child!) and wish there was an actual, trustworthy and unbiased biography of this visionary, if demanding, stylemaker.



3. Not that Anna Wintour is such an interesting person, but the author writes a nice biography. He does a good job, interesting details. However, I probably expected more "glitz". I recommend the book.



4. This book is slightly boring. If you want to read about a spoiled neurotic woman, this book is for you! I had trouble finishing it.



5. I just finished read two smashing books on Diana Vreeland, so I was interested to read Front Row. I had high hopes, not knowing a lot about Wintour, that this would be a great read. Wintour's life is not that intriguing. And compared to Vreeland, her moral compass is a bit off. She seems to be, as my grandmother would say, a bit of a harlot. Wintour may know style, and I love Vogue, but if this is what Wintour is like, she doesn't have a lot of depth. In fact, I got the impression more than once that this is a person who doesn't read--not like real readers do. I'll take Vreeland's outlandish description of "The Night of the Long Knives" in her biography over this "street smart" clothes horse. But then again maybe high school drop outs are OK if they come from a tony British background and rise to the top of Fashion's bible. Oppenheimer does his best with a subject who may "sparkle" at the galas--but is, sadly, just made out of paste.

2 comments about Full-Color Sourcebook of French Fashion: 15th to 19th Centuries (Dover Pictorial Archives).

1. I don't own this book-- let me say that up front. But with any reproduction from the 19th century, there's one thing of which you must beware: the Victorians LOVED to put their "stamp" on things. If you look at the bodies of the women, for example, you can see they hold to a Victorian standard of beauty, not one contemporary to the costumes rendered. The differences in line and fit for the articles of clothing themselves are also subtly different, based on, again, a very different aesthetic. While this may not matter to anyone looking for general outlines and period landmarks, it's something to keep in mind for more serious research. In other words, if you're looking to reproduce a costume somewhat faithfully, this shouldn't be your primary resource.



2. Dover's edition is reproduced from colorplates
   from "Modes et Costumes Historiques" (Paris, 1864).
   It is a very good guide to fashions of the nobility
   and general costume of the peasant/working class,
   including women and men, a doctor, page,
   shepherdess, and chambermaid, etc.
   
   There is a List of Plates at the front, but no Introduction, Index in the back, or glossary of terms. Plate captions include the Plate number, General Title, Date.
   (ie: "Plate 3. Women from the outskirts of Paris (reign of Charles VIII), 1443.")
   
   
   This edition would go well with Dover's
   _An Illustrated Dictionary of Historic Costume_ or
   _A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion Historic and Modern_.
   
   The book is well worth it for fashion enthusiasts! As an art historian and illustrator, I find Dover's color plates extremely useful for accurate patterns and fabric colors.

No comments about Bejewelled by Tiffany 1837-1987.

5 comments about The Art of the Band T-shirt.

1. it was okay, i had hoped a bit more in depth to the periods but as a vauge overall view it was very nice- i was dissapointed my first queen concert shirt was not listed.I had purchased it as a gift for a customer but i don't think it is cool enough to give them , sigh



2. My boyfriend plays in a rock band, so I got the book as a surprise for him. We love looking through it and reading up on the stories of the how, why, where, and what of each particular shirt. Call us Rock Geeks if you want, but I think this book is "Chicken Soup for the Rocker's Soul."



3. If you are interested in band or rock tees- this is THE book. You can tell the authors are true music fans who really care about this subject. It is well presented with great photos on really nice paper. Almost every page is a photo- so it serves as a great catalogue of "the best of" band shirts. Interesting details on each shirt keep you turning the pages. They really did a lot of research. Good range of tees (not just rock). If you are interested in music, fashion, or art- you'll like this book.



4. This is a great mini coffee table book with heaps of great band t shirts for almost every genre of music. Would make a great gift.



5. Or I guess I had that one. It is great to be able to see so many shirts that I had or always wanted. I miss my RUN DMC shirt, and now can at least look at a photo of it. The photos are high quality, the selection is varied and impressive, and great stories about how some of the shirts/logos came about, that you don't usually get to hear.

No comments about Poiret.

2 comments about The Vintage Workshop Art-to-Wear - The.

1. I bought this book with the hope that it would give inspiration and instructions to create new pieces that include images as well as instructions to embellish existing pieces. Unfortunately, this book is more focused on how to take Indygo Junction's transfer paper and use it to embellish pieces. The patterns to make some of the pieces are conveniently sold by Indygo Junction. But this is not my major issue with this book. Given that most of the pieces are created using the same image printing and transfer techniques, there is little reason to have detailed instructions on most of the projects; they use the same transfer techniques for each project, so essentially, you have a book of the same technique being applied to different pieces of clothing! In fact, out of the 40 projects in the book, over half of the projects have you either transfer or print the image onto printable fabric and adhere the image onto the garment. There are 5 t-shirts that you just adhere images to with only slight embellishment. I found the projects to be uninspired, even with some very beautiful images involved. It was a "slap on an image, add a contrasting piece of fabric and some stitching, and you've got art" approach that I found, on a whole, uninspiring. The projects themselves are a matter of taste--some were nice, others were repetitive (how many t-shirts with appliqued images do you really need to provide detailed instructions for??? One detailed piece, plus a gallery of inspiration would have been better--it would have left room for more project ideas).
   
   To make mattes worse, the instructions are lacking in some of the projects. For instance, one of the more advanced projects--soldered charms--where the instructions will NOT help a crafter select materials and complete the project. There is no information on soldering, supplies, techniques, etc. The assumption is that you'll just figure it out from the soldering iron manufacturer's instructions. Other projects incorporate unique products, like the Z Becky Brown purses, but the instructions are so simple and provide little inspiration that I wonder why they were included in the first place (the purse instructions simply tell you the sizes are for the panels and instruct you to print out the images from the CD and cut them to fit).
   
   When I first looked at the book, I thought there would be more detail in creating the piece from start to finish; this book is really just a clip art and idea book on how to use the clip art. For a $30 price tag, I expected much more, and was sorely disappointed.
   
   While the vintage artwork is nice and they make it easy to use (they provide both print versions and images on CD for people with different levels of computer skills--this takes up about 1/2 of the printed pages in the book), the images they supply are for personal use only--you cannot use the images for items you wish to sell commercially (even for handmade items) unless you're selling the images for a non-profit (e.g. church fund raiser); others will have to license the images from them; that process is unknown, and I'm not sure of the legality of them licensing images they've collected since the images SHOULD be in the public domain for them to collect and publish them.
   
   Overall, I would not recommend this book unless you can get it for a bargain price. You can look at the cover page and pretty much make up your own piece based upon the cover rather than spending $20 or $30 looking at more of the same inside. As an alternative, I'd recommend Rice Freeman-Zachery's book, "New Techniques for Wearable Art"--a much more forward thinking, inspirational and creative book.



2. This is by far one of the best Amy Barickman books. It is loaded with images and paper samples for anyone that loves to work with images. It is also quite generous with instructions on how to make various projects. My very favorite so far. Thanks Amy.

1 comments about Collection by Design: A Paper Doll History of Costume 1750-1900.

1. A wonderful reference for costumes from the time periods. The clothes are excellent and colorful. Great books to own.