5 comments about Clock Repairing as a Hobby: An Illustrated How-To Guide for the Beginner.

1. This book is a good introduction, and left me wanting to learn more about clock repair.



2. 
   Part of the way into Goodrich's "The Modern Clock," I realized I needed to start with a text that didn't assume the reader already works in a clock repair shop. There being several options, I decided to check a few out of the library before buying. Kelly's "Clock Repairing as a Hobby" was one of the ones that was available. It is definitely better suited to the beginner than Goodrich. It defines many of the parts and describes the workings, and also gives basic advice on how to proceed in clock repairs. I'd rate it as useful, but uneven and insufficient. Some clock parts are mentioned in the text or appear in a drawing (e.g., "cannon pinion") but are never defined. There are drawings of several escapements or striking mechanisms, but the reader is left to imagine how the parts move relative to each other based on the description in the text. For a beginner's book like this one, a drawing showing several states of the mechanism would be much more appropriate. Several basic concepts, like how the "lift" is distributed between the pallet faces and escape gear teeth, or what is meant by the "run of the lock" are never touched on at all! If I hadn't already seen an Internet-based animation of the deadbeat escapement, I wouldn't have a clue how it worked based on the description in Kelly! So I'm going to keep looking for a better book.



3. Book seems fine unless you are looking for a book to repair cuckoo clocks...which I was. I searched for "cuckoo clock repair" and this came up. Seems like a fine book, but is useless to me.



4. The work being reviewed here is the 1972 Edition. There have been two or three reprints of this work throughout the years but about all that has changed is the cover.
   
   There are a couple of considerations that need to be addressed in reviewing this work. First, this is a work, as stated on the cover and in the preface, "....for the beginner." It does not take a rocket scientist to figure out that a complete course in clock repair and building can not be covered in 124 pages, and that is 124 pages of a rather small book. Secondly, this book was first published in 1972 which makes it 37 years old at the time of this review. This is okay though due to the fact that most of the clocks targeted in this book are well over 100 years old and the principles and techniques that worked in 1972 still work just as well today. Hey folks, we are not talking about a book here that teaches you to change batteries in ten dollar digital watches. Good grief, throw the bloody thing away and buy a new one (after you properly dispose of the battery of course, and not just send it to the landfill where it will add to the poison that will haunt your great, great, great grandchildren). Once again...this book is strictly for the beginner and concept and theory has not changed in well over 200 years, much less in thirty. The information here is not outdated. Now that being said:
   
   I love this old book. I have been fascinated with clocks since I was a wee one and was the bane of my father's existence as I would dismantle every clock in the house as fast as he could replace them. The problem came in when it was found that I was unable to put them back together. I love niggle little work, fine work, and he use to take me to his office that he shared with my grandfather. It was a dental office and they use to let me practice making dentures, partials, filling pulled teeth, and repairing such. Again, the problem came when I started taking apart their expensive dental equipment (I wanted to see how it worked), and again,I was not real good at putting in back together.
   
   Over the years I have collected old clocks; you know the kind, the wonderful old windups that you found on your grandmothers mantel. I have only one requirement when I purchase these clocks...they must NOT be in working condition! A working clock is a wonderful thing, it is like magic, but it is even more wonderful and wondrous if you know you are the one to make it so, i.e. work.
   
   This little volume covers basic clock movement, both theory and design, and practical clock repairing. I found that the section addressing the pendulum and the various variations of particular use. The author uses simple and for the most part nontechnical language to explain the complex workings of these machines, and explains them at the level that a beginner can easily understand. Wonderfully simple schematic drawings are provided. In the section devoted to the chimes and chiming mechanisms the author has even provided the sheet music for several popular (Whittington chime as an example) sounds. This, to be quite frank, is rather unique.
   
   I love the section devoted to practical repairing. The author has given us a complete rundown on all of the tools needed for your hobby. We also provided with a very nice explanation as to what each tool us used for and how to use it. The author has even gone into quite a bit of detail as to the work bench which (and trust me here) is quite important. The book does discuss the lathe and grinding wheels, but to be honest with you, if the repair requires machining special parts I am way over my head in this area and I simply take that part of the task to a professional.
   
   Now most of what I have learned has been completely self-taught. The author has stressed the importance of cleaning and maintenance. I learned long, long ago that many fine old clock that do not work and have not worked for years upon years can be purchased from the unwary for the price of a few cups of coffee, taken home and given a good cleaning, which takes very little time, and resold for enough to buy whole bunches of other old "broken" clocks! I know, I am a terrible person, but you know, business is business. If this book has one weak area for the beginner or hobbyist, it is the fact that is does not put enough emphasis on cleaning or cleaning techniques. There are other books out there that cover that and of course there is the thrill of simply learning it yourself.
   
   Is this the only book you will need to pursue this hobby? Heavens no! Will this work turn you into a master craftsman or woman overnight in the field of clock repair? Nope! Is this the best book out there for the beginner? I haven't a clue as I have not read all of them or used all of them. Did this book work for me? Yes. It has given me all the basic I needed and I have found that if I need more information I need to find "clock specific" literature on the particular piece I am working on and in many cases have to go directly to the manufacturer. Or I find that being a complete pest pays off big time. When I get in trouble I simply pester local professionals and wheedle information out of them a bit at a time.
   
   Am I good at this hobby? Hardly, there is so much to know and learn, but I do enjoy learning it and I do enjoy fiddling with the things. It is a good thing though that I do not have to make a living working on clocks...there would be great hunger and poverty in the family if I did. Anyway, this is a good book and I do recommend it.
   
   Don Blankenship
   The Ozarks



5. i am sure this book will helpful just haven't got to it yet but sure it will do the trick thank you john

5 comments about Collecting Costume Jewelry 303.

1. When I first got this book, I could not believe the plethora of incredible information. The stone charts are invaluable. If you are new to collecting, you HAVE to buy this book. And if you are not new to collecting but are a long time collector like I am, YOU need this book too! I am actually reading it from the beginning because there is so much great information. This book will always remain in my reference library, it's THAT good.



2. "Collecting Costume Jewelry 303", Julia Carroll's third book, is a wonderful successor to her first two volumes. Once again, Mrs. Carroll has produced a book that both informs and delights. From the in-depth study of Sandor Goldberger jewelry in Chapter 1 to the Jewelry Album in Chapter 6, this book is a joyous ride through the fascinating world of collectible costume jewelry. As in her other two volumes, "Collecting Costume Jewelry 101" and "Collecting Costume Jewelry 202", the information here is heavily-researched, sorted, organized and presented in an easy-to-use manner. The photos are, once again, all about the jewelry. Crystal-clear and clean, with no distracting backgrounds, the lovely pieces are presented in all their glory. The catalog pages shown throughout the book are so well-photographed that one can read every word, right down to the pricing. The chapter on Takahashi Bird Pins gives these lovely creations the attention they have long deserved, while the chapter on Craft Jewelry of the 1960's and 70's illustrates the danger of judging on surface looks alone whether or not a piece is designer-made. The chapters on Stones and Findings are highly detailed and packed full of information, conveniently collected here in one place. Like her first two volumes, this book works on many levels and for all collectors, whether they are just getting started or have years of experience. I have all three of Mrs. Carroll's books, and they are always the volumes I consult first. If you are building a library on collectible costume jewelry, Julia Carroll's books are a must-have. Definitely worth purchasing!



3. Julie's book are always a delight to receive!Just like getting an early Christmas present,and one that I will enjoy using for years to come. Her dedication to the history of costume jewelry shows in each of her publications. Costume Jewelry 303 concentrates on such topics as stones, findings, and manufacturing techniques and how they were used by various jewelry companies. I found the information on different stone types particularly fascinating. She has also included two spotlight articles on Sandor jewelry and Takahashi bird jewelry. Julie has done more than most authors to preserve the history of costume jewelry manufacturing in the U.S.A. that might otherwise have been lost. Her research in tracking down the few remaining people who were involved in the actual manufacturing is amazing. This book goes right on the shelf next to Julie's other books that I refer to practically daily.
   I am in the costume jewelry business and rely on her writings for essential (and accurate) information about my inventory.



4. As with her two previous books, Julia Carroll has created a work packed with information. Books in the collecting costume jewelry genre are too frequently simply filled with photographs where a blue rhinestone brooch...is described as " BLUE RHINESTONE BROOCH".
   Ms. Carroll's books apply scholarship and research to a subject that has seen little of that, particularly in the widely available mass market jewelry most of us see regularly. Filled with informative text, it's also lavishly illustrated.
   I highly recommend this book as well as her first two books as indispensible to a dealer or collector of costume jewelry.



5. The jewelry books by Julia Carroll just keep getting better and better! She features examples & topics never seen before in other books. I loved seeing all the old stone catalog pages with examples, the chapter on learning how important it is to study the back of the jewelry as well as the front, and all the beautiful jewelry featured in the Jewelry Album. She also tops it off with wonderful articles on Sandor and Takahashi bird pins that will delight any collector. I could not put the book down! I have been collecting for many years but it goes to show that the learning process never ends. Keep it up, Julia!

No comments about Fundamentals of Polymer Science: An Introductory Text, Second Edition.

5 comments about The Complete Wooden Runabout Restoration Guide.

1. The book I chose both through Amazon and Classic wooden boating websites is perfect for the job of looking after a special item like a vintage Chris Craft runabout, in addition Amazon's service was amazing. i was advised the item would be approx 4 weeks to arrive in fact I received it 7 days later half way around the world - fantastic!



2. Great technical book on old wooden boat restoration; HOWEVER, you really need to bone up on your understanding of boat part terms if you're going to keep up with and understand what Danenberg is talking about. This is a must read for anybody contemplating the actual restoration of a wooden boat. There's a whole bunch more to it than just slapping on a fresh coat of varnish!!!! If you're still ready to tackle the project after reading this book, you probably really are up to doing it.



3. A comprehensive review of woodenboat contruction and repair. Author concentrates on practical repair and re-construction. Not designed for restoration of show boats, but for serious amateurs looking to re-build and use a wooden boat classic. Plenty of phographs and drawings to help you along. Covers just about every topic from keels and frames to finish and upholstery.



4. A comprehensive resource for all aspects of restoring wooden boats. Easy to understand and good additional resource citations.



5. If you are planning to restore an old wooden boat this book is a must have.
   Well written, large font and good content.

5 comments about Saving Stuff: How to Care for and Preserve Your Collectibles, Heirlooms, and Other Prized Possessions.

1. I have only glanced through the book but know I will refer back to it not only for my own collections but also for the museum where I am a volunteer.



2. This book is excellent. It is easy to understand, cheap to implement, comprehensive, and effective. The book covers maintenance as well as storage. I wish my ancestors had been able to access to this book.



3. I don't need this book. I thought it was a book on saving things that don't matter, or that does matter. Files, odds and ends. I needed a organizer of house items Its primarlily antiques.



4. amazon delivered item on time as promised. Item was a Christmas gift which the recipient liked.



5. "The most comprehensive book on preserving every type of collectible..." Don Williams, Senior Conservator of the Smithsonian Institution, has written a concise volume dealing with how to preserve everything from baseball cards to furniture. Easy to understand preservation practices. No hard to understand museum jargon. An excellent work for anyone who collects anything or the small museum.

No comments about Airstreams Custom Interiors.

5 comments about Wayne Goddard's $50 Knife Shop, Revised.

1. I brought this book well over a year ago and it's basically a overview of knifemaking. I do rate it as being worth the money, but if you are looking for a book that offers step by step on how to go about making a knife..this isn't the one.
   
   What it does offer is the differences between forging and stock removal, the materials needed for each, some information regarding damascus and Kriss blades, finishing techniques, a section on building homemade grinders, heat treating information, how to build a one brick forge (doesn't work that well but does work for small blades), some tips on grinding the bevels, etc.
   
   My complaint about this book is that Wayne presents some false information. He suggests that narrow tangs are stronger then full tangs. This is simply false as a full tang blade is supported by a full width of steel going all the way across the handle and when properly constructed..the actual handle isn't weak either as it should be held on with mechanical AND chemical methods. Hammering knives through a 2x4 is a inaccurate test as well and he specifically said he would never do that to a full tang knife. Well that means he's never actually compared the two on that test then.
   
   Other then that..I don't really have any complaints.



2. Like being told how to do it the right way by your grandfather. Part wisdom, part story telling, and part stern guidance.



3. I bought this for my husband for a gift and it was exactly what he wanted, great pics and lots of good info.



4. I just struggled through this book, and it's total lack of organization is maddening. The author jumps off on a thousand tangents, but can never finish a thought. He starts on one idea then moves on to another - he talks about how wheels on sanding machines can be made from scrap wheels, and mentions that he was recently at Pearl Harbor, and they had lots of carts there, so obviously there is a scrap yard somewhere where old wheels can be purchased.
   
   WHAT ?!?!?
   
   Due to the horrible editting the text often contradicts itself - to reference just the bit about grinders again, he talks about how scrap wheels are good, especially for hollow grinding ... but you need more precision if you're going to do certain things ... like hollow grinding.
   
   
   I wanted to like this book, because the author is so clearly a friendly interesting guy...but the bottom line is this:
   
   Pretty much every other book I've read on knifemaking is better than this one.



5. I bought this book along with 3 other knife making books. Wayne does a good job of describing knife making procedures with a minimum of tools. If you are on a budget I would strongly recommend this book. It has LOTS of pictures and does a good job of explaining them unlike some other books. If you have a little more budget than $50 get David Boye's book Step by Step Knife Making or the Barney/Loveless book How to Make Knives

5 comments about Antiques on the Cheap: A Savvy Dealer's Tips: Buying, Restoring, Selling.

1. Watch Video Here: http://www.amazon.com/review/R1HQ0TQ924HFQP I really hate the sound of my voice but I feel it is important to give a potential buyer a "look inside" the book. This was a great book except for the fact that it was published in 1998 and could use an update. However, most of the information provided by the author is timeless.
   
   Enjoy!



2. do they have websites? b29349@yahoo The tip about runnning an airbrush off a tire is great.



3. This is a great book. Informative, practical, concise and easy to follow directions for restoring all types of items. I wish I'd had it years ago.



4. THE BEST BOOK TO OWN. INEXPENSIVE AND PRACTICAL ADVISE ON HOW TO CLEAN AND REPAIR FRAMES,SILVER, BRASS (THE ONLY PLACE I'VE SEEN BRASS CLEANING THAT WORKS) TRUNKS, POTTERY, AND LAMPS. YOU DON'T NEED A WORKSHOP OR ART SUPPLIES TO USE MR. MCKENZIES' RECEIPES FOR REFURBISHMENT OR REPAIR. NO COLORED PICTURES, JUST DRAWINGS, IT'S THE TEXT THATS WORTH THE PRICE OF THE BOOK. IF YOU CAN READ, THINK, AND FOLLOW VERY SIMPLE DIRECTIONS, THEN USE THE PRETTY COFFEE TABLE BOOKS FOR INSPIRATION AND THIS BOOK FOR REALIZATION. I USE IT OVER AND OVER AND OVER.



5. This is the most helpful book I've read that in very succinct style tells how to buy, fix up, and possibly resell antiques and other second hand stuff. If you love "shabby chic", but can't afford the prices, this book will make it easier to achieve that look. This book is not for people who worry about getting their hands dirty.

5 comments about How to Restore Your Collector Bicycle.

1. This is a second printing of the same helpful hands-on guide published in 2001. The original book received several 5-star reader reviews which may be viewed at the first printing's product detail pageHow to Restore Your Collector Bicycle. The chapters not only cover finding, evaluating, and restoring old bicycles, but discuss all aspects of collecting them. Step-by-step disassembly and assembly procedures are covered in detail, with one chapter devoted strictly to painting. There is even a black and white photo gallery showing collectors' personal bikes. Written for hobbyists by a hobbyist.



2. Well written book for a collector and enthusiast. Loads of helpful information for any restoration project. Great photos and checklists.



3. I am mainly into restoring classic British cars, but my interest in classic bicycles has always been strong. I have found this to be an excellent book for its coverage of the restoration process, for the many helpful technical tips sprinkled throughout, and for the high level historical information covering major categories of most commonly collected bikes.

   Some of best financial advice in the book relates to finding and selecting reasonable project bikes (I have a bad habit of trying to "save" bikes needing major work and/or missing parts). The chapters "Finding and Evaluating a Bicycle" and "Choosing the Right Project" have helped to change my approach. As recently as this morning, after becoming enamoured with a certain 1920s era bicycle needing restoration, I checked page 12 and was tipped off that the expense of the single tube tires might be significant. A quick phone call verified the expense...saved!

   This is a well written book and well worth the investment.




4. a great book love it



5. I can't say enough good things about this book! Of course it has the usual "how to remove a tire" info, but the sections on rebuilding and refinishing a vintage bicycle are plain outstanding! The information is detailed without being overwhelming. And they also make sense to non-gearheads like me. The book also gives lots of sources for obtaining vintage and reproduction parts--with URLs that actually work! One of the things I liked best about the book is that the author places much emphasis on the decision making process involved in cleaning/repairing/restoring an old bike. As we all know, many collectible bikes (and collectibles of any kind!) have been ruined by over-enthusiastic owners wanting to make them "like new." It is obvious that Mr. Love LOVES his hobby, and delights in sharing it with other people. Highly recommended!

5 comments about An Ounce of Preservation : A Guide to the Care of Papers and Photographs.

1. This is a very good reference for the novice archivist, especially one who is working with an organization of modest size that cannot engage a professional archivist. Would be strengthened by the addition of a section on what to archive.



2. This is one terrific book. Just what I needed to get started with my old photos and papers before it was too late to salvage them. Obviously, Mr. Tuttle (the author) knows his stuff. "My stuff" has been saved by his sage advice. Thanks, Mr. Tuttle.



3. As a guide book written specifically for lay persons, An Ounce of Preservation has an educational mandate. As such, it is compelled to offer well-researched and accurate information in all details. At the same time, it attempts to simplify a highly complex field to fit the format of a short booklet that can be understood by a reader who has never concerned himself with document preservation before. The main dilemma of this book becomes apparent at the point where these two goals meet: simplification versus accuracy - can both coexist? Some critical observations must be made that demonstrate how the author has compromised the accuracy of his text by falling into some of the traps of over-simplification.

   In the process of simplification, information must be excluded, and the choice of what to omit and what to highlight is not an easy one, particularly in view of the rich history of photographic processes. The guiding principle should be to describe foremost the processes most likely to be encountered by the family historian in his personal collection of historic documents. Unfortunately, Tuttle has decided to concentrate on less common processes. He mentions gelatin based black and white prints in only one sentence, and almost as an afterthought (p. 28), although this process accounted for the vast majority of all photographic prints for about 70 years. Collodion prints, though widespread and likely to be present in every album that goes back at least to the 1880s, are not even mentioned once. Rather, the author describes negatives in detail and even dedicates two sentences to albumen coated glass plates, which never abounded and are exceedingly rare today.

   Complex cause/effect relationships may become too difficult to describe in short paragraphs, but their simplification can easily lead to slight or great inaccuracies, as can be seen throughout the book. The use of parentheses as a space saving method of explaining a former term can lead to misunderstandings, as for example with the description of the calotype process, which "involved the application of silver iodide (a light-sensitive solution) to a sheet of paper..." (p. 24). Silver iodide may be light-sensitive, but it is not a solution, as Tuttle's wording implies. Silver iodide is in fact insoluble in water, and can thus only be formed on the paper fibres by the subsequent application of two aqueous solutions to the paper surface: that of potassium iodide and that of silver nitrate. Had the author formulated his explanation accurately, he might have written, for example: "...involved the precipitation of light-sensitive silver iodide on a sheet of paper". The use of chlorides was actually more common than that of iodides at that time.

   Next to shortening by exclusion of information, the author has chosen to use what he calls plain language - a term that indicates that he is avoiding complex language which the lay reader could not understand. In going down this path, Tuttle uses a terminology that implies that the issue at hand is really more complicated than he can expect the reader to grasp. One of the most used terms in this book is "pH-balanced", which is neither defined, nor used consistently in one sense. The true meaning of this term, which, incidentally, is not commonly used in conservation literature, remains elusive no matter how long it is contemplated. In An Ounce of Preservation it is used to describe any material that is archivally "good", but it does not, for example, differentiate between paper with an alkaline reserve (p. 15) and that which is pH neutral (p. 59). Should a family genealogist come to me as a trained conservator and ask if he should use "pH-balanced" paper to house his negatives, I could only respond with a blank look on my face. Tuttle misses the important opportunity in this and other cases to give his readers the adequate vocabulary to communicate on an appropriate level with professional conservators.

   On a positive note, the author has kept the chapter on repair and cleaning very basic (p. 63). The techniques he describes are among those that are considered standard preservation measures in the contemporary understanding of minimal intervention. Any complex treatment, Tuttle stresses, should only be carried out by a professional conservator. This makes it clear that many treatments can easily lead to greater damage if carried out lightheartedly. The inclusion of a description of the ethics and complexities of the work of a conservator as well as definitions of basic terminology might have been beneficial, however, as self-help books will often give the reader the impression that a do-it-yourself approach will always work.

   The absolute condemnation of the lamination of documents (pp. 45-46) brings up the concept of reversibility, which is fundamental (even if impossible to comply with) for the understanding and application of conservation treatments. Although the book does cover many sources of deterioration and gives hints on housing documents, the most important advice is missing: how to actually handle your papers and prints. The ground rules should be clearly stated at the beginning of the chapter on storage and care (p. 55): maintain a clean workspace, refrain from smoking, eating and drinking in the presence of important documents, and simply wash your hands before handling them. Humans, after all, are the greatest source of danger to documents.

   Despite the many small inaccuracies, omissions, and simply false statements, such as the definition of relative humidity in the glossary (p. 93), distributed throughout the book, An Ounce of Preservation does install in the reader a sense of appreciation for those old papers and faded photographs in the basement. This is an important achievement in itself. Apparently, an expanded second edition of this book is in preparation. One must hope that, prior to publication, Craig Tuttle will submit his manuscript to a paper conservator and photo historian for review, so that his book can advance from being 'recommendable with reservations and in view of the lack of alternatives' to 'wholly recommendable' from the conservator's point of view.




4. With no background in caring for old photos and papers, I was in a quandry over what to do with the box full of items left to me by my deceased uncle. I didn't have the money for a professional to refresh and repair the photos, many of which suffered from long years of neglect. So I went online in search of a publication that would tell me where to start. An Ounce of Preservation provided me, a true archival dummie, with the groundwork I needed to begin the restoration project. As I sent off for information from companies listed in the appendix of the book, I learned more and more, unti I now feel like a blooming expert! I have a great scrapbook of my uncle's photos that I can pass on to my grandchildren, and it's a scrapbook that takes care of the items instead of aiding in their destruction. Without all the easy-to-follow techniques and many, many leads for more information provided in the book, I doubt if I would have ever had the courage to tackle the job myself. And since I didn't have the money for professional help, all those precious items of family history would still be deteriorating away in my closet. I contacted the publisher (to find out how to contact the author) only to learn that a greatly expanded second edition of this book is in the works. I highly recommend this book to anyone who wants to learn the basics -- it was all news to me!



5. "An Ounce of Preservation" is more aptly described as a pamphlet which delivers only the most BASIC information that most people nowadays regard as common knowledge. The reader looking for practical help, such as what solution to use to clean a smudged photo from the twenties, will find very little to go by (no more than a three-sentence paragraph for the cleaning of old photos). This thin book might have been more successful if the author had limited his scope and treated his subject in more detail. As it is, it's a lot to pay for text that can be read in less than an hour.